Dog Training: From Treat Bribes to Learned Signals
Welcome to a journey into the exciting world of dog training, where we explore how to phase out hand signals, teach the dog to understand our words and how to achieve stimulus control. It's about more than just teaching your dog something new - it's about creating a deep understanding of the task and honing the interaction between you and your dog. So read on and take dog training to a new level of precision and interaction!
Do your dog's bidding, but only for as long as the dog wants, and we have the solution!
How to use the free signal correctly
Once you've taught a behavior and your dog performs it intentionally more often than not when asked, you want to pay attention to release signals like "okay," "off you go," or "release." A release signal ends the task and informs your dog when it's okay to do something else. If you're careless with release signals, your dog might lie down when you ask for it, but then get up, try other behaviors, or walk away when he/she feels like it – which might not align with your intention. So, stick to the routine:
- "Sit" – your dog sits
- "Good" + reward
- "Okay" (to end the task).
Does your dog exhibit a range of behaviors as soon as a reward is in sight, pretty paw, spin around, sit, lie down, in a single blissful mess? Here's the solution:
How to achieve stimulus control
In dog training, stimulus control means your dog has learned to offer a learned behavior when you ask for it, like sitting when you say "Sit." Your dog shouldn't offer the behavior just to get a reward; instead, they should wait for your signal. A dog with stimulus control for a specific behavior doesn't do it randomly; instead, they wait for your signal.
You achieve stimulus control by not rewarding (with praise, play, treats, or attention) if your dog performs a behavior you've taught without being asked. However, you should generously reward when your dog performs the behavior on your cue. Stand in front of your dog, quickly give a "Sit," if they sit, reward them, then end with a release signal.
If your dog quickly offers other abilities you've practiced, ignore it; no rewards are given. Then say "Spin" (if you've trained that on a cue), if your dog spins, reward comes, but spontaneous spins get no consequence. This way, you refine stimulus control.
Does your dog need assistive guidance (treat in hand) to e.g. stand, walk, stay or lie down? Would you prefer to teach the action on a verbal signal, i.e. a word? Here is the solution:
Hand signals vs. verbal signals
In dog training, both hand signals and verbal cues are used to communicate with the dog. Hand signals are visual signs, like a hand motion for "Stop," an extended hand for "Sit," or a sweeping motion towards the ground for "Lie down." Verbal cues are words or whistles.
Remember, dogs aren't born understanding human language – we have to teach them what our words mean by connecting them to learned behaviors. Consistency and clear communication are vital here.
How to go from guidance to hand signals
When teaching your dog a new behavior, you use guidance along with a reward to guide the dog into the right position. This guiding hand movement becomes a natural hand signal that shows the dog what's expected. So instead of, for instance, taking your hand and moving it around your dog's body to get him/her to spin, you start pointing in a circle without a reward in your hand. If your dog follows the motion, reward afterward from your other hand. Your pointing is now the hand signal for spinning. Once your dog understands the behavior and performs it confidently and eagerly with the hand signal, it's time to introduce your verbal cue.
How to choose effective signals
It's crucial to carefully choose your cue words. The cue should be clear and not confused with everyday words. Use your voice in a way that stands out, a bit more cheerful than usual. For instance, a distinct "Come heeeere!" is more effective than "Buddy, come, come now".
Feel free to create a word list of the verbal cues you want to use with your dog. Then stick to that list. Changing words or pronunciation will make it challenging for your dog to understand correctly.
Linking signal to behavior
Before adding a verbal cue that you initially say while your dog is performing the action, it's essential that your dog already knows the behavior you're working on when you give the hand signal. We want to avoid confusing the dog when we start removing the hand signal, more on that below.
How to phase out hand signals: step-by-step
Hand signal-behavior-word: Start by saying the chosen word, such as "Sit", while the dog performs the behavior on hand signal. So, show the hand signal, when the dog sits, say "Sit". Repeat this until the dog strongly associates the word with the behavior.
The word-hand signal behavior: Progress by saying "Sit" just before you give the hand signal. If your dog sits when you say "Sit," you can remove the hand signal and reward the dog.
Gradually phase out the hand signal: When the connection is strong, start saying your chosen word while gradually reducing the hand signal that follows. This helps your dog focus on your word as the reliance on the hand signal diminishes. For example, transition from a clear hand movement towards the ground for the lying-down position to a subtle pointing, then a nod, and a glance towards the ground where you want the dog to lie down. As you gradually decrease the hand signal, work on solidifying the word.
For "Stay," let the clear stop hand signal become a subtle point, which with time evolves into raising your chest as you point a bit farther, before removing the pointing entirely. Afterward, raising your eyebrows is sufficient. Once again, reinforce the word "Stay" throughout this process. If you do this gradual transition from hand signal while connecting your dog's performance to your verbal cue, your dog will become more responsive to your word.
Word Only: If you've trained adequately and your signal has been clear and distinct, you're almost there! Your dog now responds to the verbal cue even before you give the hand signal. When this happens, it's time to entirely remove the hand signal. Repeat until your dog responds to the word without any visual help. Remember, if your dog's performance falters, you may need to backtrack a bit in training, simplify by returning to steps 1-2, especially when training in a new environment with many distractions. If your dog's performance falters, it's time to go back to providing a little guidance through the hand signal, especially in demanding environments.
Never nag: An essential rule is to never say the word twice. If you say "Sit"... "Sit"... "I said sit!" and your dog sits and gets a reward, you've trained the whole phrase "Sit"... "Sit"... "I said sit!" Skip that. Don't nag. If your dog doesn't perform, simplify rather than repeat. It's never the dog's fault; you've just gone too fast in training.
Achieving stimulus control, moving away from hand signals, and teaching verbal cues might seem challenging. But once you've succeeded, you've learned a winning concept for you and your dog. Training also provides your dog with mental stimulation, which is always rewarding.
You'll also have an attentive dog that waits for your cues, is responsive, and understands the tasks you're working on. Additionally, you'll have an effective communication method with your dog. Good luck with training, and have fun!
[How to get a calm dog in public environments] and [Boost your dog's motivation: increase your value!] are further articles that will give you an in-depth knowledge of how to succeed in dog training!
Writer: Caroline Alupo
Written by: Caroline Alupo
Caroline Alupo is Petli's co-founder. She has a master's degree in ethology and is also a trained dog trainer and dog psychologist. She has 19 years of experience as a professional dog trainer. Read more about Caroline here.
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